You have probably seen the terms before: AHA and BHA. Two ingredients that have become hard to imagine a good skincare routine without. But what do they actually mean and how do they work? And how do they relate to our third new hero: PHA? In this article we explain how each works on its own and, more importantly, how together they make a real difference for your skin.
Exfoliation: the foundation
Your skin renews itself constantly. On average a full cell renewal cycle takes about 28 days, but as you get older that process slows down. Dead skin cells build up at the surface and are not shed quickly enough. The result is probably familiar: a dull complexion, uneven texture, pores that clog faster and fine lines that look deeper than they are.
Exfoliation helps speed that process up. You remove the layer of dead cells so that new ones become visible and your skin can absorb active ingredients better. Chemical exfoliants such as AHA, BHA and PHA do this more precisely and evenly than a physical scrub, without physically damaging the skin.
AHA: for radiance and cell renewal
AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid. The best known are glycolic acid and lactic acid, and they work on the surface of the skin. They dissolve the bond between dead skin cells so they release and new cells become visible.
The result is immediately noticeable: a smoother texture, a more even tone and a skin that reflects more light. In the long term, AHAs also stimulate collagen production, which contributes to firmer skin. For anyone dealing with light pigmentation or fine lines, AHA is a strong ingredient.
The Peeling contains glycolic acid at 0.5%, deliberately kept low so you can use it regularly without overloading your skin.
BHA: for deep pore cleansing
BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid, and in practice there is only one relevant BHA in skincare: salicylic acid. The big difference with AHA is that BHA is oil soluble. That means it can penetrate the sebum layer in your pores and clean from within, something a water soluble acid cannot do.
That makes salicylic acid particularly effective for oily or congested skin, but also for anyone whose pores clog quickly. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, which makes it valuable for reactive or red skin too.
The Peeling contains salicylic acid at 1.5%, effective enough for thorough pore cleansing but mild enough for sensitive skin.
PHA: exfoliation and hydration in one
PHA stands for poly hydroxy acid, and this is the acid most people are not yet familiar with. In The Peeling that is lactobionic acid, a PHA with a special property: it exfoliates and hydrates at the same time.
How does that work? PHA has a larger molecular structure than AHA and BHA, so it penetrates the skin more slowly and less deeply. Less risk of irritation, less risk of redness. At the same time, lactobionic acid is a humectant: it attracts moisture and holds it in the skin.
For anyone who long thought exfoliation was something for resilient skin: PHA is exactly the acid for sensitive, dry or compromised skin.
Why all three work together
The Peeling combines glycolic acid (AHA, 0.5%), salicylic acid (BHA, 1.5%) and lactobionic acid (PHA, 1%). Together 3% acids, deliberately kept low. Not because higher would not work, but because the three acids complement each other and your skin does not have to choose between radiance, cleansing and gentleness. They work in parallel.
What keeps it in balance: four calming extracts that together make up 6% of the formula. Centella Asiatica (2%), Allantoin (2%), Aloe Vera (2%) and Portulaca Oleracea (1.2%) keep the skin soothed while the acids do their work. The result is a skin that exfoliates without feeling stripped. No break-in period, no redness the next morning.
Exfoliation as the foundation of your routine
A good exfoliant is not an extra step, it is the basis. A skin that exfoliates regularly absorbs active ingredients better, looks more even and copes more easily with the cell renewal that naturally slows down. That is exactly why The Peeling is the first step in The Routine: a clean slate on which the rest of the treatment can do its work.
Discover The Peeling as part of The Routine. Try it for 30 days, not satisfied? Money back.